A Week in Buenos Aires: Steak, Storms, Tango, and the Quest for an Uber

When we booked a week in Buenos Aires, we pictured leafy boulevards, elegant cafés, and maybe—even if we didn’t say it out loud—a little Evita balcony moment. What we got was all that plus a few unexpected adventures involving rogue horses, 10pm dinner culture, and the great Uber waiting game.

First Impressions: The City of Beautiful Chaos

Buenos Aires is massive—but surprisingly green, clean, and welcoming. Despite its size, we felt incredibly safe the entire week. Prices? Let’s call it “Los Angeles adjacent.” Meals and hotels were comparable to home, but Ubers were so cheap that we asked ourselves why anyone would ever ride a taxi—until we learned it could take 15 minutes just to find one. We used our phones to pay everywhere, even the street vendors had tap to pay machines. We did exchange $100 to ARS as tips were not allowed to be added to the bill when paying electronically. And, although we left tips everywhere, we didn't see anyone else around us doing so even though I had read that 10% is customary.

We based ourselves in Palermo, the hip, leafy district where everyone looks like they’re either launching a start-up or roasting small-batch coffee beans. Our boutique hotel was walking distance from Ecoparque—the former city zoo turned eco-conservation park—where we met maras, those rabbit-meets-guinea-pig-meets-kinda-cute rodents that roam the grounds like they own the place.

We also wandered to the Rose Garden (stunning), the Japanese Garden (serene), and Planetario Galileo (very cool dome structure—best appreciated from outside if you have a 7-year-old).

Palermo Vibes

Think Brooklyn meets Paris meets an Instagram filter. Artisan markets set up in Plaza Serrano daily, designers sell locally made fashion, and cafés appear on every corner like they sprout naturally.

Day 1: Touring With Dario, Our Human Encyclopedia

We kicked things off with a private city tour with Dario—part guide, part history channel.

First stop: Recoleta, Buenos Aires’ intentionally Parisian neighborhood. Imagine Belle Époque mansions and boulevards twice as wide as the Champs-Élysées, because Argentina said, “France, hold my wine.”

We popped into Ateneo Grand Splendid, an opera house turned bookstore where you can browse novels from a gilded balcony. The stage is now a café, and they somehow convinced us that CDs are still a thing—because yes, there’s a music section with CDs and LPs.

From there, we explored Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo’s famed Sunday market—a treasure trove of surprisingly affordable local art. Then we admired Casa Rosada, the President’s office but not his home—because apparently Argentina doesn’t feel compelled to live where they work. Respect.

Next up: Puerto Madero and its famous Puente de la Mujer, a swing bridge that rotates open instead of lifting. Ten out of ten for style.

La Boca & The Choripan Revelation

There happened to be a Boca Juniors soccer game that evening, meaning La Boca was basically one giant tailgate. We ducked into Caminito, the rainbow-painted street of tango shows, artists, and snack stops. We ate at El Gran Paraiso, a hidden speakeasy-style courtyard serving grilled meats—including choripans worthy of sonnets. Highly recommend the tree-lined setting and rooftop beer spot overlooking the chaos.

Day 2: Dinner at Betty & Marcelo’s—Where Steak Meets Storytelling

We pre-booked their famous asado based on rave reviews, and Betty greeted us like we were long-lost cousins. We enjoyed a glass of wine in their courtyard and got to know the other guests before we were ushered into an intimate and well-designed dining room with BBQ range for dinner.

Twelve people, five countries, limitless wine—this was basically a globally diverse reality show but with delicious steak instead of drama. Marcelo grilled everything over a wood fire right in the dining room while Betty fed us stories about food, culture, and family. Our only regret? That we couldn’t stay forever.

Day 3: Gauchos, Horses & Wine—The Countryside Calls

Ready to escape city noise, we headed 1.5 hours into the province (translation: cow country) for a full day gaucho farm day. We rode horses (briefly), enjoyed a hearty asado lunch (more wine), and then got treated to live and interactive gaucho music and dancing.

It was relaxed, authentic, and ended with a beautiful musical send-off—proof that horses and steak truly are compulsory pillars of Argentine tourism.

Day 4: Uruguay—A Day Trip to a Slightly Sleepy Neighbor

Just over an hour by ferry and boom—another stamp in the passport. Colonia del Sacramento is cute, historic, and feels a bit like someone emptied the town for a siesta and forgot to invite the people back.

Lunch at Charco was excellent—waterfront, modern, and leisurely.

Then came the horseback incident.

We’d booked a beach riding excursion that sounded dreamy online. What unfolded was more “how to communicate without language.” Our guide spoke Spanish, but not the Spanish we could understand. Rich and Sienna wrestled with uncooperative horses while the guide looked mildly amused.

The beach portion was stunning—but lasted roughly ten minutes before we reversed course. Recommended only for confident riders… and confident horses.

Dinner back in town? Let’s just say we enthusiastically recommend not eating in the center square.

Fun overheard moment: A German traveler lamented staying three nights because the beaches were washed out and the town had “nothing to do.” We nodded supportively while silently thanking ourselves for only booking a day trip. Cool to say we've been to Uruguay and add a stamp to our passport, and perfectly fine for a day, but unless you are going to explore the rest of the country, one day in Colonial del Sacramento is plenty.

Day 5: Tango & Indoor Fun (Thanks, Rain)

Rainy weather pushed us indoors to Museo de los Niños, a children’s museum inside a mall. Sienna was in heaven—interactive exhibits, play stations, imagination overload. Parents, rejoice—highly recommended for a rainy day or a child with excess energy (i.e., all children).

Dinner + Tango Show came next at Aljibe—a gem recommended by Dario. The best part? It starts at 7pm instead of 10pm, because locals don’t even think about dinner until midnight.

Tip: Skip the included shuttle—ours turned into a 90-minute hotel pickup relay race.

Dinner was just fine (avoid the veal schnitzel), but the show itself was fantastic. Sienna still calls it her favorite thing she did in Argentina—which is saying something, given how she ranked horses earlier in the week.

Even better: buy tickets directly, not from a third party. Much cheaper.

Final Takeaways

✔ Buenos Aires is unexpectedly elegant, energetic, and totally child-friendly.

✔ Palermo is the perfect base for cafés, shopping, and parks.

✔ Ubers are cheap but often elusive.

✔ Food and experiences can range from Michelin-worthy to “what exactly did we just eat?”

✔ Tango at 7pm > Tango at midnight.

✔ Uruguay is charming—but perhaps best in small, carefully curated doses.

✔ Choripans should have their own holiday.

Would we go back? Absolutely—with slightly firmer horseback riding criteria and a stronger snack game.